The Abbey of Santa Maria de Olearia in Maiori
Located about 20 kilometers from our boutique hotel, the Abbey of Santa Maria de Olearia in Maiori is one of the most important monastic settlements on the Amalfi Coast as well as a precious testimony of art and architecture of the early Middle Ages. It stands in one of the gorges formed by Mount Falerzio, along the Amalfi State Road, and is famous for the medieval pictorial cycles that are still visible inside today. Entrance is free but the site is only open on some days of the week, so it is necessary to inquire at the Municipality of Maiori.
According to the abbot and historian Ferdinando Ughelli, its history began in the 10th century, when the archbishop of Amalfi, Leone, granted Pietro, a hermit who lived in the company of his nephew Giovanni, permission to build a monastery in the place where where the oil was processed (hence the “Olearia” epiclesis). Then other monks arrived, it became necessary to build a real building. The structure was thus expanded, going from a Benedictine protocoenobium to an abbey. In 1580 it was incorporated into the Chapter of the Cathedral of Amalfi by Pope Gregory XIII and was subsequently abandoned. Only during the 19th century was it restored.
Perfectly integrated into the surrounding landscape, the complex is currently made up of three small overlapping chapels, in which it is possible to admire as many pictorial cycles, all medieval, but executed at different times.
At the lowest level (about ten meters from the road) there is the oldest nucleus, the so-called crypt (also called Catacomb Chapel), which preserves the remains of a cycle of frescoes which originally must have covered all the walls, presumably dating back to the original settlement. The section of best preserved frescoes is located south of the apses, in which a series of saints composed of four figures can be recognised: the first, headless and without a halo, should be John, the nephew of Peter the first hermit; the second is to be identified with Saint Paul; in the center the praying Virgin; and finally San Giorgio.
An external staircase to the crypt leads to an esplanade, in front of the actual small church, the Chapel of the Virgin, built at an altitude of 4 meters higher than the first nucleus and dated by an inscription, present at the entrance, (AD MCX ) referable to the year of its construction and in all probability to the paintings. It presents a pictorial cycle that develops the themes of the Incarnation (Annunciation, Visitation, Nativity, Announcement to the shepherds and Adoration of the Magi) and the Passion (Crucifixion with the mourners) enriched by the representation of David and Solomon and the Prophets (Old Testament).
On the outside, a staircase leads to the highest part of the complex, the Chapel of San Nicola, built (certainly after 1100) on the roof of the chapel dedicated to the Virgin and almost embedded in the rock above. This last chapel, as the name suggests, is frescoed with scenes referable to San Nicola da Bari. In the apse the Madonna is reproduced flanked by San Nicola and San Paolino and on the wall San Giovanni Battista and San Giovanni Evangelista. On the long sides, however, the stories of the life of Saint Nicholas can still be partially read. Very interesting are the signatures of the devout pilgrims who have visited the complex over the centuries.
Photo © Gazzetta di Salerno
