Struffoli: the Christmas dessert of the Amalfi Coast
The Christmas season has always been a time when tradition intertwines with the aromas of home cooking. Throughout Italy, Christmas brings with it a kaleidoscope of traditional sweets, each linked to family rituals, childhood memories and flavours that remain unchanged from generation to generation. From the simplest preparations to the most elaborate desserts, each region has recipes that reflect its own identity.
On the Amalfi Coast, Christmas has the unmistakable flavour of struffoli. Although these sweets are widespread throughout central and southern Italy, with slight variations in the recipe and name (for example, in Abruzzo they are known as “cicerchiata”). You have probably seen and tasted them: they are small balls of dough (made with a simple mixture of flour, eggs, sugar, butter and anise liqueur) that are fried, dipped in honey and decorated with coloured sprinkles (also known as diavolilli) and candied fruit.
Although struffoli are a Neapolitan pride, according to tradition they have very ancient origins. Apparently, it was the Greeks who brought this dessert to the Gulf of Naples during the time of Partenope. Even the name seems to be of Greek origin. The term derives from “strongoulos” or “stroggulos” (round in shape). However, this is only a theory. Another hypothesis links them to a similar dessert typical of Andalusian cuisine, piñonate, which differs only in the shape of the dough balls, which are more elongated. It is said that the dessert originated in Andalusia and arrived in Naples during the long period of Spanish viceroyalty. Yet another theory claims that the name derives from the Italian ‘strofinare’ (to rub), referring to the gesture made by those who work the dough, rolling it into a cylinder before cutting it into balls. While it is unclear where the name comes from, it is very clear where they go: first into our stomachs, and then onto our hips (if we have eaten too many).
The first written reference dates back to a late 17th-century cookery book by Antonio Latini, which describes a recipe very similar to the current one, calling it “strufoli o struffoli alla romana” (Roman-style strufoli or struffoli). More recently, their popularity is due to the nuns of Neapolitan convents, who prepared them to offer to noble families who had distinguished themselves for their donations at Christmas.
Struffoli, like all evergreens, are essentially unchanged but come in many variations. They change from family to family, neighbourhood to neighbourhood and bakery to bakery. It’s a bit like meatballs: the same basic ingredients, but always different results. And be prepared: anyone who offers you struffoli will be convinced that their recipe is the authentic one, the traditional one, handed down by a grandmother, mother or nun aunt.
Behind this apparent simplicity lies culinary wisdom refined over time. Take size, for example: the smaller the struffolo, the better it tastes. Why? Because the surface area of fried dough increases proportionally to the internal volume, and the external surface area that comes into contact with honey also increases proportionally, resulting in a ball with a truly unbeatable flavour.
For those who want to make struffoli at home, here is the traditional recipe.
Ingredients for the dough
600 grams of flour
5 eggs
2 tablespoons of sugar
80 grams of butter
zest of 1/2 lemon, grated
zest of 1/2 orange, grated
1 small glass of anise liqueur
a pinch of salt
For frying
peanut oil
For seasoning and decorating
400 grams of honey
coloured sprinkles to taste
100 grams of candied orange peel
100 grams of candied citron peel
50 grams of candied pumpkin
Procedure
First, prepare the dough. Simply combine all the basic ingredients (flour, eggs, sugar, butter, lemon and orange zest, anise liqueur and a little salt) and mix well until they are blended and the dough is smooth and homogeneous. Before cutting the dough, shape it into a ball and let it rest for at least half an hour. Then knead it again briefly and roll it out on a floured surface into sticks about the diameter of your little finger. Cut these into balls about one centimetre in diameter and place them on a floured cloth without overlapping.
When you are ready to fry them, use a sieve to remove any excess flour. Fry them a few at a time in plenty of boiling oil until they are golden brown. When they are ready, drain them and leave them to dry on kitchen paper.
Separately, prepare the syrup in a pan by simmering the honey and half a glass of water. Once the mixture is ready, remove it from the heat and add the fried struffoli, stirring gently until they are coated in honey. Then add about half of the sprinkles and chopped candied fruit and stir again. Then transfer the struffoli to a serving dish, shaping them into a pyramid, and sprinkle the remaining sprinkles and candied fruit on top to create an attractive effect.
PS: for those with a sweet tooth, the best struffoli are found at the bottom… because the honey, forced by gravity, drips down.
