The Basilica of Sant’Eustachio in Scala
In the heart of the Amalfi Coast, overlooking the coastline, stand the ruins of an ancient medieval church. We are talking about the mighty Basilica of Sant’Eustachio, where Christian and Islamic influences intertwine. The site is located in Pontone, a hamlet in the municipality of Scala, and although the basilica is reduced to the state of a ruin, it still retains its majesty thanks to the three apses that rise many metres above the plateau. Positioned on a rocky spur (from which it overlooks Monte Aureo and the village of Pontone), it overlooks a breathtaking panorama that enchants the eyes and soul. It feels like being suspended between sea and sky.
The basilica, considered one of the most beautiful in southern Italy, was erected during the 12th century on commission of the noble D’Afflitto family, opposite their tower-house, and dedicated to the Roman martyr Saint Eustace. By ancient tradition, the surname of the family would recall the affliction suffered by the martyr, believed to be the progenitor of the family. Consecrated only in the 13th century by Bishop Gerbino, the church has linked its history to that of the D’Afflitto family. With the decline of the coastal municipalities, the family was forced to divide between Naples, Apulia and Sicily and the church itself went into decline, abandoned. It was only at the end of the 20th century that the remains of the structures underwent a major restoration that halted the destructive process, which had already begun in 1570.
The basilica, oriented like all medieval churches towards the east, has three naves, originally separated by large marble columns with classical capitals, of which only a few remain in situ. Lighting was provided through narrow side slits. Nothing remains of the roofing, while the façade, which we can still clearly see today, is very refined, in fact, the triapsidal termination with interlaced arch motifs can be seen. The atrium is in front of the basilica and is flanked by the imposing bell tower, which could originally be accessed through three doors, one central and two side ones.
In the book ‘Istoria della città e costiera di Amalfi’ published in 1836, the historian Matteo Camera believed that inside the church there were four funerary chapels belonging to the D’Afflittos themselves: one next to the central door; two in the respective side columns; and the last one could be the chapel of Saint Catherine, whose tomb slab is preserved in the Church of San Salvatore de’ Birecto (located in the small town of Atrani). The basilica had a ‘triapsidal’ crypt covered by three pointed arch crosses, slightly raised and lit by acute single-lancet windows, the remains of which can be admired.
It is impossible not to recommend a visit to this place, where one breathes an ancient silence, more eloquent than a thousand stories.
Featured Photo © Travel Amalfi Coast- Travelmar
