The hamlets of Amalfi

Everyone knows Amalfi but few know that the illustrious Maritime Republic includes five hamlets (or casali) in its territory, where one can enjoy splendid walks and suggestive views. Characterised by a strong identity, they are distinguished by the presence of a large number of churches and medieval structures, known as ‘a volta’ (vaulted) due to their very particular shape. Walking through their narrow streets will feel like going back in time. For trekking enthusiasts, the hamlets can also be visited along the Via Maestra dei Villaggi, an ancient path that originated in the time of the Duchy.

What are the hamlets of Amalfi? Let’s discover them together!

Pastena

Located just one kilometre from the centre of Amalfi, Pastena is the hamlet closest to the town walls. From here you can admire one of the most enchanting views of the area. The name probably derives from ‘pastinato’, a term used since the Middle Ages to indicate an agrarian contract for the concession of uncultivated land. There are two churches in its territory that are definitely worth a visit. The first, the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, was built between the end of the 13th and the beginning of the 14th century. Recognisable by its unique sea-green majolica bell tower, it houses a valuable Mannerist panel by the Maiorese painter Giovannangelo d’Amato. The second, the Church of the Madonna del Carmine, dates back to the 14th century and houses a magnificent fresco by an unknown author depicting the Flight into Egypt.

Lone

Near Pastena is the small hamlet of Lone, consisting of a medieval urban layout and surrounded by lush gardens, terraces and religious buildings. The primitive toponym, from which the present one derives, was perhaps linked to some prominent personage of the Amalfi merchant nobility. Its main church is dedicated to the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary and is a reconstruction of a 13th-century parish church that unfortunately collapsed. Inside, it houses a precious 14th-century wooden panel depicting the Madonna del Latte and several canvases from the workshop of the Neapolitan painter Paolo de Maio. The bell tower, located in the south-west corner of the large churchyard, is the only surviving structure of the ancient church dating back to 1202.

Vettica Minore

The hamlet of Vettica Minore extends on the borders of the municipal territory of Amalfi. The toponym is said to derive from the Latin word ‘vectigal’ and should be linked to some sort of tax probably of an agricultural nature. In the hamlet is the beach of Santa Croce, a small inlet immersed in nature (reachable only by sea) that takes its name from the remains of the ancient Church of Santa Croce. In addition to the crystal-clear sea, the beach is famous for the presence of a magnificent natural arch, known as ‘degli innamorati’ (of lovers), at whose passing a kiss is a must. Other sights worth seeing include: the 16th-century watchtower; the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, with its majolica-domed bell tower; and the Chapel of the Virgo Potens, which houses a statue of the Virgin for whom the people of Vettica have a deep devotion.

Tovere

Walking up the stairs from Vettica Minore, one arrives at Tovere, an ancient settlement inhabited by sailor-farmers. Situated at an altitude of 650 metres, it offers a stunning view, to say the least. The original place-name ‘Tobulum’ indicated structures of a rural character in which locals and animals lived. The hamlet is dominated by the 13th-century Church of St. Peter the Apostle, which preserves artistic and architectural features of Arab-Byzantine style, including the high bell tower. Inside, several valuable works can be admired, including the large fresco of St. Peter in the Chair in Pontifical Robes with Saints Nicholas and Jerome, from the Giotto school. In addition to the Church of St Peter the Apostle, the Chapel of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, the Chapel of St Catherine and the rupestrian Church of the Holy Trinity are also worth a visit.

Pogerola

Located on the hill of Monte Falconcello, Pogerola is a quiet hamlet from which one can enjoy breathtaking views of both the sea and the mountains. The hamlet was once called ‘Pigellula’, perhaps because special terracotta dishes were produced there. Among the things to see are the Church of Santa Marina Vergine, dating back to the 12th century, with frescoes by the Amalfi painter Ignazio Lucibello; the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, with a Byzantine plan, built in 1181; the Church of the Madonna delle Grazie, built in 1539, which houses a wooden statue of the Madonna in whose right breast is set a stone that, it is said, was a drop of milk from the Virgin that fell while she was breastfeeding the baby Jesus; the Church of the Madonna dei Fuondi, dating back to the 18th century, in which a papier-mâché statue has been worshipped since 1959; and the remains of Castrum Pigellulae.

Photo © Visit Amalfi