The Ziro Tower between history and legend
Located just over 10 kilometres from our boutique hotel, the Ziro Tower is all that remains of the castle of Scalella in Pontone, a district of the town of Scala. It stands on a spur of rock jutting out towards the sea, between Atrani and Amalfi, with a narrow walkway, encircled by crenellated walls, connecting it to the far end of the esplanade. And it is known not only for its architectural interest but also because over the centuries it has been the scene of many events.
Little is known about its origins, but it was certainly part of a network of defensive structures scattered along the coast to sight the fleets of Saracens arriving from the sea. Its strategic position still affords those who observe it a panorama of extraordinary beauty. The first news of its existence dates back to the 12th century, when it was called ‘Turris de Sancto Felice’. It was not until 1292 that the name ‘Turris Cziri’ was used. It is said to owe this name to its particular cylindrical shape, reminiscent of the cylindrical, underground containers used in ancient times to store oils and cereals, which in Arabic were called ‘Ctiri’. It appears that at the beginning of the 18th century it was in a state of efficiency but shortly afterwards was abandoned and deprived of care. As it stands today, the tower has all the elements of defensive works from the Angevin period.
The building’s fame is linked to the story of Joan of Aragon, known as ‘the Madwoman’. We are in the late 15th and early 16th century. Giovanna married the Duke of Amalfi Alfonso Piccolomini when she was very young. After a few years, he left her a widow and at the head of the duchy, which was in poor financial condition at the time. The court butler Antonio Beccadelli of Bologna, whom she later married in secret and by whom she had children, was appointed to help the young woman with the administration of her property. When her two brothers, Cardinal Carlo and Federico, found out that she had married a man of inferior rank, they took it upon themselves to suppress the scandal and, after ups and downs and daring escapes, had Bologna killed and Giovanna and her children imprisoned in the Torre dello Ziro, where they were left to starve to death or, according to more reliable chronicles, had their throats slit.
According to one legend, the soul of Joan of Aragon still wanders the tower, seeking the freedom that was denied to him in life, and the locals believe that her ghost still haunts the tower.
The story of Joan of Aragon was told and passed on in his novellas by Matteo Bandello, an eyewitness to the affair because he was a friend of Bologna. It then inspired various tragedies, including ‘El Mayordomo de la Duquesa de Amalfi’ by Felipe Lope de Vega and the masterpiece of Elizabethan theatre ‘The Tragedy of the Dutchess of Malfy’ by John Webster.
For trekking enthusiasts, the Ziro Tower can be reached via a scenic path from Pontone. The route is easy and immersed in a wooded environment of rich variety.
Photo © Scala and Trekking
